Blumarine has appointed David Koma as its new creative director. Koma, born in Georgia and based in London, has replaced Walter Chiapponi, who hurriedly left the Italian luxury label only four months after being hired, having developed just one collection. Women’s ready-to-wear label Blumarine was acquired in 2019 by holding company Exelite, formerly Eccellenze Italiane, owned by the founder and boss of Liu Jo, Marco Marchi. Blumarine said that the first collection designed by Koma will be the Fall 2025 pre-collection.
“David Koma’s aesthetic attracted me right from the start. I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensibility, characterised by an overwhelming femininity,” said Marchi in a press release.
Koma, 38, usually shows in London with his own label, but in June he opted to present his first menswear collection in Milan. He is an experienced designer and has taken charge of a fashion label before, having been creative director of Parisian label Mugler from 2014 to 2017.
Koma was born in Georgia’s capital Tbilisi, and has loved fashion ever since childhood. He studied fine arts in St Petersburg, Russia, and in 2003 he moved to London to study at Central Saint Martins. After graduating, he founded his own women’s ready-to-wear label in 2009, and immediately caught the eye on the London runways for his body-hugging lines, his sculptural construction, and his use of high-tech materials with couture details. Koma’s creations have been appreciated by celebrities like Beyoncé, Dua Lipa, Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Lopez.
“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour and elegance that I have always admired, and it is an honour to be able to write the next chapter in the brand’s illustrious history,” said Koma. “The label’s feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey feel incredibly authentic,” he added.
Blumarine’s new owners relaunched the label in 2020 with designer Nicola Brognano, targeting a younger audience with a strong Y2K mood. They then decided to give the label a more sophisticated feel, and turned to Chiapponi. They are clearly hoping to continue in this direction with Koma.